A front view of an original cap badge of the 2nd King Edward's Horse regiment.

Infantry Units raised in the British Army during the Great War of 1914 – 1918.

Infantry Units raised in the British Army during the Great War of 1914 – 1918 (latterly known as World War One).

In this series we take a closer look at the cap badges of the infantry units raised, and manned, specifically for action during the Great War. Separate series are dedicated to the Corps and The Royal Navy division, that were formed during the same period.

Most were at battalion strength and were subordinate to their local Army Regiments. The list of the battalion strength units:

Army Regiment (The…)

Battalion numbers

Unit name

2nd King Edward’s Horse

 

2nd King Edward’s Horse

Northumberland Fusiliers

20th-27th, 29th and 30th

Tyneside Scottish

Royal Warwickshire

14th-16th

Birmingham Pals (1st-3rd)

Royal Fusiliers

25th

Frontiersmen

 

38th-40th, and 42nd

Jewish Legion

King’s Liverpool

17th-20th

Liverpool Pals (1st-4th)

Prince of Wales’s Own West Yorkshire

15th

Leeds Pals

East Surrey

13th

Wandsworth

Border

11th

Lonsdale

Welsh

16th

Cardiff Pals

Duke of Cambridge’s Own Middlesex

18th

1st Public Works Pioneer

Royal Irish Rifles

14th

Young Citizens

 

The article will explore each in a bit more detail, showing what I believe to be correct original badges and their traits, as well as reproductions and their traits also. I will include as many photos as possible, keeping the post updated continually as new examples and evidence comes to hand.

The blog will not go into detail around the units themselves. There are other excellent sources of information for this information.

The 2nd King Edward’s Horse Regiment

Starting with what is considered the correct type of badge for this regiment, front and rear view.

Characteristics:

No.

Version

Material

Method

Mount

Height

Width

1

Other Ranks

Gilding metal

Stamping

Slider

60 mm

45 mm

2

Other ranks

Gilding metal

Die cast

Slider

59.5 mm

45 mm

3

Officer

Bronze

 

 

 

 

 

1. Stamped other ranks version.


The type considered to be correct and genuine. Key point to note is the lack of the laurel leaf above the ‘C’ of the CANADA banner.

2. die cast other ranks example.

An interesting example, I do consider this to be correct also, but is less commonly found. This type is rarely found with the maker mark “A. J. ALLEN B'HAM”.

The laurel leaf above the CANADA banner is present. The area above the rolls of the Empire and Liberty banner are cut in on both sides.

Neither of these badges have the dropped AND in the lower banner. This I believe is a feature of the common copies.

Copies/reproductions

A range of copies from a similar die, both voided and not voided, found on lugs, inconsistently positioned, or a slider, mounted lower than on the originals. The details are weak and poorly defined, particularly evident from the reverse of the stamping. The main feature is the dropped AND word in the lower banner, as detailed.

Dropped AND word in lower banner. Also worth noting the incomplete voiding underneath the date 1914.

The various mounts seen on reproductions. Notice the wide feet on the lugs.

Tyneside Scottish

There are a few versions of the Tyneside Scottish cap badge to review. To start by showing each 'type' to differentiate.

 

Type 1 cap badge

The early war pattern, made in limited numbers only. Hence very scare and commands a high price. The following image shows a true badge and a reproduction side-by-side.

Note the differences in the turret and the general lack of detail on the reproduction.

Mounts seen on originals are nearly always round wire lugs. The exception being occasional badges with a hinge, pin, and catch system. With these badges you should find the lugs clipped off. A common practice at the time called "brooching", the practice of turning the cap badge into a brooch for gifting.

Lugs on the fakes seem to be placed right on the edges of the badge. Not a feature of original lug placement.

Type 2 cap badge

The Type 2 cap badge was a change in design. There's a greater emphasis on the "X" of Saint Andrew. The central turret remains with the lion emerging from it.

Always die stamped on to white metal only. Any brass badges found are considered fake. The oversized font is a key indicator of fakes of this kind.

Interestingly, the lion motif on reproductions more often than not seems to be thin bodied and ribs pronounced, as if starved. Refer to my "fake cavalry cap badges" section for further examples of this.

 

This type of badge is found with varying hardware for mounting. This is either hinge, pin, and catch, in either steel, brass, or a mixture thereof; hexagonal flat-sheet brass lugs; or the common round wire lugs.

The reverse is a good indicator or originality and should not be overlooked.

Details such as material spalling, lug types, and die striking detailing are key indicators. Please refer to my blog post: Understanding how cap badges and medals are made.

See how the genuine badge has a noticeably raised edge/border. A feature of the deep striking process. The reproductions nearly always lack this.

Type 3 cap badge

The Type 3 cap badge is the most controversial of the four types. There is a change in design again. The lion now stands atop the turret facing left when viewed from the front. Nicknamed "the angry ferret" because oddly, the lion looks more like a ferret than a lion. 

The following images are front and back views of three variations in the design. Two of which are considered fakes. The third badge, lower right, has much better detail and a good solid mount pin. I would only consider owning one that has the pin mount.

A closer look at the three angry ferrets. The lugged versions, from both the voided thistle (left) and not voided thistle (centre) badges, and the pinned original badge far right.

Note the small step on the centre castellation of the turret on the left and centre badges. Does not exist on the pinned original.

Here we examine the font on the Tyneside Scottish tablet. The top 2 tablets are from the dubious non-voided thistle badges, the third from the top is the voided thistle dubious badge, and the bottom tablet the original badge.

Here is a lesser common brass example. The lion in a different form on this model. Original badges were produced in white metal only. You should treat these brass badges with suspicion.  They are often labelled as "war economy" badges to increase appeal and scarcity.

Type 3 badges are very numerous. They make up 90% of all the Tyneside Scottish reproductions that I have come across. Clearly the fakers were rattling them out in plentiful numbers from their fake dies.

Type 4 cap badge

The last update to the design of this cap badge. Here is a genuine badge.

Royal Irish Rifles - 14th Battalion Young Citizens

A scarce and very desirable cap badge of the Young citizens Pals. There are two variants, one that is marked "Young Citizens of Ireland Volunteers", I have never seen one. Then the second type, as shown, is found in both white metal and brass.

Common fakes are easy to spot with this simple guide. Here is the first fake, a common one, but is sold by some reputable dealers and auctioneers as original. Don't be fooled.

  1. Crown jewels on this fake are all oblong lozenge shaped. Originals are from left to right: oblong, diamond, oblong, diamond, oblong. The base of the Crown is wider on this fake.
  2. The hand on this copy looks mechanical, with an after-thought thumb. Compare it with the hand of the authentic badge in the snip.
  3. The stem on the fakes is short. On originals the leaf goes much deeper, as shown in the snip.

Here is another fake design that is being circulated. A better overall effort when compared to the above, but still easy to identify.

The open palm on this reproduction badge has two distinct lines running across it.

17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th Service Battalions - (Liverpool Pals), King's Liverpool Regiment

These badges are scarce and are highly sought after due to the close link to the City of Liverpool. We start with this commonly found fake, but despite this it is still retailed at high prices.

Fortunately, this one is easy to spot using this information. The beak of the bird is oversized. Compare to the snippet of an original badge bird beak. Other features of this fake are the larger font size and the weak detail, especially around the basket.

There are multiple variations of the original badge. The materials and methods of manufacture used vary over time. Original early war badges are made of hallmarked silver, by the maker Elkington & Co.. It should have the year letter t (1914) hallmarked.

 

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